แฟชั่น

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Looking for a new bottom line

Published January 21, 2019 by SoClaimon

ศาสตร์เกษตรดินปุ๋ย : ขอบคุณแหล่งข้อมูล : หนังสือพิมพ์ The Nation

http://www.nationmultimedia.com/detail/fashion/30362532

  • Bottoms up: A pair of pants by French lingerie company Aubade. /AFP
  • Aubade’s Martina Brown /AFP

Looking for a new bottom line

fashion January 21, 2019 01:00

By Agence France-Presse
Paris

After #MeToo, lingerie designers are having to explore new ways of advertising their products

“WE HAVEN’T yet found a better way of selling knickers than a beautiful bottom,” says Sarah Stagliano, one of a new breed of French lingerie designers grappling with how to make exciting underwear in the age of #MeToo.

With G-strings and push-up bras losing their allure as ultra sexiness gives ways to comfort, and the whole idea of seduction being questioned, designers are grappling with how to be interesting without objectifying women.

Aubade, one of France’s leading lingerie brands, does not shy away from sex in its advertising.

But it found itself at the centre of controversy last month over a huge poster of a pair of perfectly rounded buttocks wearing embroidered panties.

Bottoms up: A pair of pants by French lingerie company Aubade./AFP

Hung from the facade of one of Paris’ biggest department stores, it sparked a furious response from the city’s deputy equality chief who called for it to be taken down.

Communist councillor Helene Bidard accused the brand of objectifying a “faceless” woman and demanded “the immediate withdrawal of this sexist campaign”.

Others, however, countered that women’s rights tended to be the least respected in countries where such billboards were banned.

“We were not expecting the fuss,” says Aubade boss Martina Brown.

The brand’s “Lessons in Seduction” ad campaign sparked similar horror 25 years ago, she said, when it urged women to “keep it spicy” and “let the situation work to your advantage”.

“It shocked people but that did not stop women buying the lingerie nor the brand evolving,” says the German-born managing director.

“Women love to see fine embroidery and lace; it talks to them, and that is why we have been zooming in on the underwear.

“We have to cut off the models’ heads in the photos otherwise we can’t show the detailing,” she insisted.

Nor did she feel that impossible body standards were being set for women.

“Twenty years ago some brands used ordinary women rather than models for their ads. We prefer to let people dream,” Brown adds.

Aubade’s Martina Brown /AFP

Aubade showed its latest smalls a;ongside 15 other big French brands at a huge “Lingerie Rocks” show this weekend during Paris fashion week.

The line-up also included Henriette H, a young label at the other end of the spectrum, which works mostly on Instagram.

Its creator Stagliano opened her boutique on a street in central Paris once known for its bordellos.

Stagliano has tried to capture something of that risque air by putting her changing rooms in the window.

It is up to the customers whether they pull the curtain or not.

Nor is her label averse to some rather provocative embroidery, with an explicit come-on delicately sewn into the arm of a chemise.

“I can see how all this could be taken badly,” she says. “But a woman should be at liberty to put herself in the window if she wants to. It’s about reappropriation.”

And according to Stagliano, 36, that also extends to women being free to choose whether they want “to be a sexual object”.

Simone Perele lingerie company head of technical development, AnneMarie Afflard./AFP

She backs her model, Jazzmine, who is in her 30s, and refuses to be photoshopped even if her breasts have “fallen perhaps a little” after she breastfed her baby.

Jazzmine has been the face of the brand for six years and “will still be in 10 years”, Stagliano declares.

In this line of fashion, sensual photo shoots are a must, she says.

“To sell a pair of knickers you need a pair of buttocks because that is where you wear them,” the designer adds.

“We haven’t yet found a better way to sell them than a beautiful bottom.

“If I was using a woman’s rear end to sell cream” that would be another thing, Stagliano argues.

The Simone Perele brand takes a far more restrained view.

For last year it has been showing its creations in still life draped on the end of a sofa, or glimpsed on a sportswoman or writer.

“There is another way of doing it,” says Stephanie Perele, the granddaughter of the label’s founder, who says women have had enough of photoshopped images.

Renaud Cambuzat, a fashion photographer who is now artistic director of the Chantelle group, said there were still nowhere near enough underwear choices for modern women, who are “complex, multifaceted and ever changing”.

At one extreme you have the ailing American giant Victoria’s Secret, he says, “which seems totally oblivious to #MeToo” and whose difficulties show that “we could be seeing the end of an era”.

On the other “there is the opposite extreme where you can no longer see the form of the body and we are in a kind of cartoonish plus-sized” universe.

“Even after #MeToo we are stuck with a lot of stereotypes. Lots of things are changing but there is still a way to go,” Cambuzat argues.

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Colour me Uniqlo

Published January 18, 2019 by SoClaimon

ศาสตร์เกษตรดินปุ๋ย : ขอบคุณแหล่งข้อมูล : หนังสือพิมพ์ The Nation

http://www.nationmultimedia.com/detail/fashion/30362418

Colour me Uniqlo

fashion January 17, 2019 12:15

By The Nation

Uniqlo, the Japanese global apparel retailer, will launch its U 2019 Spring/Summer collection at its stores and its website tomorrow (January 18).

The Christophe Lemaire-led design team at the Uniqlo Paris R&D Centre has once again drawn on new materials and advanced technology in exploring and innovating clothing essentials. This latest U collection is inspired by saturated earth tones countering rich, tinted hues and bold accents. Garment details and silhouettes have been simplified to accentuate Uniqlo U’s most ambitious palette to date. The result is a spirited celebration of colour applied across a canvas of iconic wardrobe essentials, each thoughtfully reconsidered and realised in its purest form, complemented by a redesigned collection logo to offer a new look for Uniqlo U LifeWear.

Mainstay crewneck T-shirts include new silhouettes and come in 12 vivid colour variations for men and 13 for women. New this season are crewneck T-shirts made from soft fabrics and with casual boxy silhouettes. For men, these items include six with solid colours and four with border hues. There are 10 solid colours for women.

Uniqlo U range’s first-ever linen pieces, with dynamic patterns and colour blocks are also being introduced. The collection will offer linen shirts for men, the first time this fabric has appeared in the collection. The soft fabric combines with an attractively straight silhouette to complete a contemporary look. For women, the line-up incorporates dynamic patterns that complement vibrant seasonal hues.

Special patterns feature on open collar shirts, shorts, and dresses. The popular swimwear range offers new designs in green, yellow, and pale pink. The reduction in braided seams ensures incredible comfort, making the swimwear perfect for the beach and for exercising. The range comprises six items, including a bikini and a one-piece.

For details, check out http://www.Uniqlo.com/UniqloU.

Colour it Beautiful

Published January 18, 2019 by SoClaimon

ศาสตร์เกษตรดินปุ๋ย : ขอบคุณแหล่งข้อมูล : หนังสือพิมพ์ The Nation

http://www.nationmultimedia.com/detail/fashion/30362343

  • Etro
  • Emporio Armani
  • marni

Colour it Beautiful

fashion January 16, 2019 01:00

By The Nation, Agencies

Frankenstein prints, red leather trousers and dressinggown style coats make an impression in Milan

After threeandahalf intense days, Milan Fashion Week drew to a close on Monday and handed over to Paris for the next stage in Europe’s season.

Here is an overview of the main trends for men’s fashion as well as women’s styles for the AutumnWinter 20192020 season, plus a short commentary on some of the more remarkable outtakes from the shows.

In red and black

For many designers this season was all about red and black.

For fashion house MSGM, men wore red leather trousers with black stripes on the side accompanied by mixed colour jackets.

versace

For Versace, the letter V covered their twotone pullovers, while at Prada women wore red derbies with elegant black dresses and men posed in burgundy vests and black jackets.

Leopard, snake or fish?

The animal world also inspired this season. At Versace, men wore long leopardprint coats with short hair dyed to match.

Snakeskin prints were on shirts at Marni and on overcoats and pants for M1992. Dsquared2 offered fishscales in multicoloured tones.

Emporio Armani offered a python effect on men’s pants and jackets, as well as a zebra blazer.

Dolce and Gabbana

Flashy colours

Another trend this season is the use of audacious combinations of colour.

Men at MSGM showed off an extravagant mix of fluorescent yellow sweater collars with orange wind¬breakers and pink trousers, as well as various other combinations.

Orange was also a key colour in trousers and jackets by John Richmond.

Meanwhile, Versace offered men the chance to wear suits with black and yellow stripes and a flashy pink overcoat.

Fur on display

At Prada, black caps were on dis¬play with reversable furry insides and colourful trims.

Fur also made an appearance on epaulettes or tassels, inspired by cer¬emonial military style wear.

At Emporio Armani fur also appeared on bags and backpacks, and Fendi showed off camelhair jackets.

Emporio Armani

Italian oomph from D&G

Dolce and Gabbana mixed checks, furry gloves and shimmering dressing gownstyle coats in their first presen¬tation after the fashion house was forced to apologise to Chinese cus¬tomers in November  for posting short clips on Instagram showing a Chinese woman eating pizza, spaghetti and a cannoli with chopsticks.

The uproar escalated when Stefano Gabbana allegedly used poop emojis to describe China and hurled insults at the country and its people.

But the pair steered clear of con¬troversy in Milan with a collection named Eleganza.

The backdrop oozed 1930s Berlin decadence with giant red curtains, jazz and a master of ceremonies recre¬ating a Cabaret ambience.

To highlight Italy’s mastery of cloth, an atelier was also recreated with tai¬lors and fitters taking measurements and cutting and stitching as the mod¬els walked up and down the ramp.

Models showcased quirky styles, teaming tailcoats with plaid trousers, matador suits with sparkling bow ties and a ginger velvet suit with black lapels.

D&G did not skimp on Hollywoodlevel glamour incorporating colours such as midnight blue, burgundy and deep purple.

A study in contrasts

The Prada Men’s and Women’s Fall/Winter 2019 offered a roman¬ticpop vision playing with the ten¬sion between human sensitivity and the dangerous roughness of life.

Shown in the grand hall of the Deposito, the multifunctional venue for performances that is part of the Fondazione Prada complex, the label had its models walk, distanced from the crowd, through an artificial ter¬rain made of dimly lit glass and soft spiky foam, reminiscent of a scene from a science fiction movie.

Prada

Military influences blended with traditional shapes, precision tailor¬ing and pocket details. Outfits were sculpted with bustiers and belts to create sleek, formfitting looks while padded nylon was paired up with classic fabrics and shapes. Backpacks, always in padded nylon, metaphorically represented one’s own personal baggage.

Prints showed exaggerated romantic symbols mixed with pop cartoon symbols, like broken hearts, roses, Frankenstein and lightning.

Classic fabrics included silk, wool gabardine, cashmere, kid mohair, a mohair/alpaca blend, nylon, tela tec¬nica pro, embroidered cotton, English formal fabrics such as Prince of Wales, and pinstripes.

Back to the future

For Marni, artistic director Francesco Risso explored the desires of the new and rebellious generation who know what they like and go all out to get it. Stylish and sometimes quirky, his wardrobe was simple with a bold silhouette and boasting plen¬ty of loose fitting and colourful casu¬als such as extralong trousers, striped mohair jumpers as well as animal printed parkas and anoraks. Silk shirts and pyjamalike trousers were splashed with vibrant patterns drawn from Bruno Bozzetto’s 1976 animation “Allegro non troppo”.

There was classic too –boucle coats, moleskin jackets and trousers and oxford shirts, all in bold pro¬portions. Leather jackets were worn with misaligned pinstripes and banana sock boots,

Mysteries of the forest

Etro recounted a dreamlike tale through an installation conceived in the boutique of via Monte Napoleone, guiding the viewer through an enchanted forest burst¬ing with flowers, fairies and elves in its menswear collection.

Fairy’s flowers grew on a printed fabric jacket, while the bomber jack¬et with warm autumnal colours were woven with silk threads for a threedimensional jacquard tale. The bark took on unusual shapes and colours on a velvet dressing gown with car¬nelian tones embellished with jew¬elled brooches.

The soft trench coats were rebuilt and destructured for a relaxed yet refined fit, while the trousers with side band hinted at an urban verti¬cal forest.

The colours, from warm and diur¬nal, were mysterious and elusive while materials were fine, transforming the contemporary nature of the oversized parka with quilted hood into a medievalstyle tapestry, in which the gobelin fabric was combined with flo¬ral flock for a velvety touch.

Different materials and colours intertwined; for example, velvet was adorned with a golden patina and combined with tonsurton orna¬mental patterns.

Etro

Urban meets jungle

The energy of the animal world and the wideopen spaces of natural sce¬narios freed up the horizon of the con¬crete jungle and the natural ambience of the Emporio Armani man. This col¬lection was designed for this hybrid habitat, with a pragmatic and sporty imprint yet remained urban at its core.

Narrowshouldered jackets, coats with strong volume, fluid trousers with a cuff at the hem shaped a physical, svelte silhouette. The sensuous tex¬tures and the colours were the distin¬guishing features, creating a signature made up of cool colours, as well as wild patterns inspired by the coats of Albino animals.

Carding, lasering, screenprinting and other artisanal techniques pro¬duced animal motifs on clothes and accessories: pythoneffects on trousers and jackets, crocodile scales on blousons, feline stripes and zebra pat¬terns on evening blazers and pullovers.

The palette was an icy mixture of optical white and cool white, with notes of grey with a frosted patina and blue, red, and black accents in the checks and prince of Wales patterns.

The look was rounded off with technicallooking shoes, roomy fur backpacks, flat duffel bags with zebra stripes and body pieces such as belt bags and vests.

Lynnie lives the Hi Life

Published January 18, 2019 by SoClaimon

ศาสตร์เกษตรดินปุ๋ย : ขอบคุณแหล่งข้อมูล : หนังสือพิมพ์ The Nation

http://www.nationmultimedia.com/detail/fashion/30362289

Lynnie lives the Hi Life

fashion January 16, 2019 01:00

By THE NATION

The London-based artist collaborates with Jaspal for a limited editio collection to toast the opening of the brand’s new store

LONDON-BASED artist Lynnie Z, best-known for her bold and colourful drawings, has joined up with Thailand-based global fashion brand Jaspal for a special collection tagged “Hi Life” to celebrate the launch of the brand’s new flagship store at Iconsiam.

The collaboration is part of the brand’s “Jaspal Gallery” project, which aims to select outstanding artists from around the world to design special collections that will delight customers every season.

Hi Life, a limited collection that includes fashion items for both men and women, is inspired by fun portrayed through such motifs as stars, hearts, lips and faces – Lynnie Z’s signature – with strong African links portrayed through vivid colours.

The launch event, which was part fashion show and part exhibition, also offered guests a range of fun activities including tattoo painting and photo corners, plus a live display from the artist.

“I was so honoured to be a part of such a wonderful project,” Lynnie said. “Thailand has an outstanding heritage and Thai people love art and fashion, which is the reason why I decided to come on board. Also, I think Jaspal and I share the same artistic soul, and, more importantly, the brand fully understands the story relayed behind my works.

“To me, this project was really wonderful, allowing me to create a masterpiece collection with a famous local brand, and communicate my inspiration, passion, and uniqueness through the collection. This is one of the best works I’ve ever created. As for the process in making this collection, for the most part, I came up with ideas and colours from my sketchbook.

These are organic and abrupt but they reflect a liveliness that I wanted to communicate through the collection.”

Stylist Akaphol Ruthaiyanont was impressed. “It’s a perfect combination between radiant colour and Jaspal’s splendid design. The collection is really outgoing and varied and once the pieces are mixed and matched with signature Lynnie Z’s patterns, they become one of a kind. I love every individual piece from the collection, especially the graphics.

Malaysian by design, sustainable by choice

Published January 18, 2019 by SoClaimon

ศาสตร์เกษตรดินปุ๋ย : ขอบคุณแหล่งข้อมูล : หนังสือพิมพ์ The Nation

http://www.nationmultimedia.com/detail/fashion/30362288

Malaysian by design, sustainable by choice

fashion January 16, 2019 01:00

By KUPLUTHAI PUNGKANON
THE NATION

2,308 Viewed

Nala brings colour and exceptionally beautiful motifs to a store near you

KNOWN FOR its vibrant spins on classic Malaysian motifs, Nala is loved for its uniquely vintage patterns that have evolved from paper craft offerings and fabrics to a range of apparel and fashion accessories. Today, the brand has a presence in France, Belgium, Italy, Switzerland, Hong Kong, Cambodia and Thailand, where it can be found tucked away in corners of 10 Central department stores.

Lisette Scheers, proprietor, pattern artist and creative director, attributes her creations to her multicultural upbringing. For the past decade, when she opened her first store in Kuala Lumpur, no single motif has been computer illustrated. She believes each pattern and design has a soul and reinforces the brand’s heritage as a purveyor of beautiful hand-designed patterns and silkscreens as well adorning lifestyle products from bags, apparel, gifts and fabrics to household furnishings and even carpets.

“Nala, which is named after my daughter, came into being with a box of stationary and has grown into ready-to-wear. I’m a Dutch national, born in Singapore and raised in Malaysia. I’ve spent my whole life in Asia and I’d like to preserve the Asian rich heritage. Everything here has a story to tell. It’s not just a pattern created to look pretty,” says Scheers, who flew into Bangkok to introduce her shop.

Scheers finds her inspiration in the Malaysian heritage and says one of her objectives is to preserve the culture that comes with a strong sense of symbolism and stories. She pays homage not only to the country’s varied cultural backgrounds but also flaunts elements inspired by local flora, fauna and vintage motifs. Her love of prints and patterns translated to a stunning paper-based collection of writing materials and whimsical gifts before evolving into colourful fabrics and timeless fashion.

“This collection is called ‘Over the Moon’ and is inspired by the traditional Chinese mooncake moulds that I found at a flea market in Kuching. The patterns cut a striking image with their vivid shades and ornate scalloped shapes. It is enhanced by the intricacy of traditional Malay Nonya jewellery, which inspired such patterns as Pinafleur, Broche Blush Pink, and Silver Songs. The 1950s are one of my favourite eras and I adore the skirts from that period. I think women looked really elegant dressed in a flared skirt with a tight top or Tutu dress. It’s just always pretty, I started with only four styles but now have 10 times more.

“I worked in advertising for more than 20 years and pattern making was something I did on the side. Whenever I have time, I always sketch. It is a challenge, like a number puzzle. It is complicated and you don’t know how it is going to come out. It is difficult to see where it begins and where it joins. I love that,” she adds.

“Colour is my biggest passion. I spend a lot of time working with colour and the Pantone check is my best friend and the first thing I do. I’ve never gone beyond 12 colours per collection. It’s a lot of colour |but it is controlled. My pattern is 100-per-cent Asian but doesn’t look Asian. That is also another challenge. They appeal to every walk of life and are ageless. The women of Nala are playful but always have their own opinions and I reflect that in my colours and fun patterns,” Scheers notes.

As a special tribute to mark the brand’s introduction to the Thai market, Nala is dedicating a floral-inspired pattern to the kingdom. The motif, aptly named “bunga kertas” (Malay for “paper flowers”) after the bougainvillea, was influenced by the rose, one of Thailand’s favourite blooms.

Scheers is also committed to sustainability and to the Zero Waste movement, taking steps to recycle left-over fabrics into toys, gifts and a host of practical items. She recently launched a soft toy, called “nalapinou” made entirely out of waste fabric. The name comes from a combination of Nala and “lapinou”, a French nickname for “lapin” which means “rabbit.” Nalapinou truly embraces the spirit of childhood while respecting the environment and its inhabitants.

“We’re making sure nothing goes to waste,” says Scheers.

Time gentlemen please

Published January 18, 2019 by SoClaimon

ศาสตร์เกษตรดินปุ๋ย : ขอบคุณแหล่งข้อมูล : หนังสือพิมพ์ The Nation

http://www.nationmultimedia.com/detail/fashion/30362261

Time gentlemen please

fashion January 15, 2019 09:05

By The Nation

Parrish Jones, an upscale tailor near BTS Phrom Phong station, takes bespoke tailoring to a new level with a fully stocked complimentary bar, a barber, dry-cleaning and the latest technology in measuring gents for their suits – a 3D Body Scanner that can record thousands of measurements accurately.

 “With our scanning technology, we hope to modernise the process of making tailored clothes. We still want to provide people with traditional attentive service, but also realise that Bangkok has a transient population, especially among expats. Soon, when our online shop is up and running, you’ll be able to log-in, pull up your avatar — your body image — from wherever you are. You will be able to scroll through our fabrics, styles, and design and virtually try on your own suit, shirt or pair of slacks. Once you’re scanned, and are in our system, you will always be in our system. You can order from anywhere, and we’ll ship it to your doorstep,” says Andrea Parrish, who opened the shop last August together with another industry veteran, Jouni Heinonen.

Parrish Jones is the first to use 3D technology for bespoke clothing in Thailand. It is also one of the first to extract data to create better fitting garments. “Technology gives us an advantage as we can see many details other tailors can’t. Our scanner takes a thousand measurements in a few seconds, and allows us to see a bow in the back, sloped shoulder, or see if one leg is longer than the other. This allows us to make better fitting garments,” Parrish explains.

There’s no need for any hasty decisions when visiting the shop either. Having a relaxing drink while sitting on an opulent leather sofa is part of Parrish Jones’s appeal, where the customer is encouraged to take their time.

Getting to know his customer is where Parrish Jones aims to make a difference, employing plenty of capable staff to ask the right kind of questions. “We ask the client where they live, and where they are going to wear their clothes. Are they travelling a lot? If so, they don’t want to buy an expensive wool suit because it will wrinkle,” Heinonen explains.

Parrish Jones offers barber services, Bespoke clothing, and a full line of accessories in one location.

Find out more at http://www.parrishjones.com, Facebook.com/parrishjonesbangkok, or email bangkok@parrishjones.com.

Italian by design

Published January 11, 2019 by SoClaimon

ศาสตร์เกษตรดินปุ๋ย : ขอบคุณแหล่งข้อมูล : หนังสือพิมพ์ The Nation

http://www.nationmultimedia.com/detail/fashion/30361891

Italian by design

fashion January 09, 2019 01:00

By The Nation

Gucci pulls out the stops for new Iconsiam store

Italian luxury fashion house Gucci recently opened a store at Bangkok’s newest shopping desti¬nation Iconsiam on the Chao Phraya River.

After nearly a century, Gucci remains true to its heritage, which is celebrated in the 512squaremetre store stocked with a wide selection of men’s and women’s readytowear, handbags, shoes, accessories, watches, jewellery, eye¬wear and fragrances.

Its walls of white and grey mar¬ble are visible through the mall’s distinctive glass facade. The interi¬or design is discreet, welcoming and relaxing, with velvet armchairs and vintage darkwood display furni¬ture offset by industrial elements like rivets.

Surprising and unexpected combinations of materials create an understated drama. Chequered wood inlays decorate the floors alongside herringbone patterns. There’s a bespoke client space for an exclusive shopping experience, characterised by mauve velvetupholstered walls, a marble mosa¬ic floor and Gucci Decor furniture.

Gucci is currently touting Arli and Rajah bags and its “Cruise 2019 #GucciGothic” campaign – a surreal take on the legend of Noah’s Ark.

The shape of the ark and Gothic architectural silhouettes form the main body of the structure, while the motiongraphic portrays sur¬realist imagery such as cascading earrings in the rain, animated bees, 3D animal heads, and other refer¬ences to Gucci motifs.

The Arli bag, named after the ancient French city of Arles, is ele¬gant in leather, suede or exotic skin. The Rajah adopts the Sanskrit word meaning “prince” or “king” and fea¬tures hardware shaped like a roar¬ing tiger’s head, coloured enamel details and sparkling crystals.

A stylish way to travel

Published January 11, 2019 by SoClaimon

ศาสตร์เกษตรดินปุ๋ย : ขอบคุณแหล่งข้อมูล : หนังสือพิมพ์ The Nation

http://www.nationmultimedia.com/detail/fashion/30361845

Guillaume Rava and Bertrand Boll
Guillaume Rava and Bertrand Boll

A stylish way to travel

fashion January 09, 2019 01:00

By KUPLUTHAI PUNGKANON
THE NATION

2,032 Viewed

The designers who brought panache to the official Leicester City FC Livery make their presence felt in Bangkok

THE ULTIMATE designs for men who love to travel and look as good on arriving at their destination as they did on leaving home made their debut in Bangkok last month with the launch of French brand Boll & Rava at King Power Mahanakhon.

Swiss national Bertrand Boll and Frenchman Guillaume Rava met 12 years ago as classmates before heading around the world as the artistic directors and designers for popular fashion houses Vicomte A and Lorenz Bach. The projects allowed the duo to discover then develop their unique style based on colour association and the use of contrasting fabrics and textures and the compliments they earned on their travels for their stylish gear were so numerous that the friends finally decided to create the perfect garments fit for a 48-hour trip with a cabin trolley.

And so the adventure began with a smart but casual blazer made from luxurious wool and with anti shrinkage treatment, an elegant shirt made by Thomas Mason in white poplin with an invisible anti-sweat patch under the arm, a document holder in crocodile skin produced by master craftsmen in Italy around Milan, chic cashmere jogging pants and a light cashmere and silk scarf for when the air conditioning on the plane is too chilly for comfort.

The pair flew to Bangkok for the opening of their twin boutiques, one named after them and the other dubbed Ace Denim.

“For the past 12 years, we have been travelling almost every week by plane, car and train. We realised that guys on the go tend to do the same thing – pack a suitcase with a formal suit, blazer, white shirt and jeans to cover what they’ll likely need while on the trip. Over the years, we have developed the perfect travel wardrobe for businessmen,” says Boll.

“One day while we were waiting at the carousel for our luggage, a Hollywood superstar walked up to us and asked where she could buy what we were wearing for her boyfriend. So we thought maybe we should commercialise our designs and create our own brand with this perfect vision of travel. Our aims are durability, contrast with a twist, comfort, and self-confidence. For example, this jacket is made of classic tailoring fabric but we have added sporty details on the waist. We use refined cashmere yarn but silicon supertech details so it’s going to be more modern and contemporary and we use bright yellow instead of traditional hues. Luxurious materials and fabrics are combined with French and Italian craftsmanship. Cotton crepe made from Italy is mixed with the super tech to give the garment a different feel,” Rava adds.

The new collection now available in Bangkok includes that elegant blazer made with luxurious Super 160s wool and the Thomas Mason white poplin 120/2 shirt with anti-sweat underarm pads. Also in stock is the alligator leather document holder, chic cashmere jogging pants, and a light cashmere and silk scarf.

The brand’s logo features two dots representing both designers. “It symbolises both of us because we are always together. It’s about the contrast and the balance. Sometime the dots are diamonds and sometime they are embroidery,” says Rava.

In 2008 Boll and Rava won an award for their creativity designs at “Who’s Next”, a leading French trade show and made headlines in the French media. Over the past five years, they have designed special collections for prestigious partners such as the Polo Club of St Tropez and Polo Club of Gstaad, Le Mans Classic and Le Tour auto races and the Vendee Globe sailing race. The Boll & Rava brand shot to fame in 2015 when the two designers presented their first travel suit on BFM, a French television channel. They also became the official outfitter for France’s La Ligue football club AS Monaco for two seasons from 2016 to 2017.

Closer to Thailand, Boll & Rava has collaborated with Leicester City Football Club (LCFC), which is owned by the late Vichai Srivaddhanaprabha, founder of King Power. Thanks to the duo’s high attention to detail, the LCFC look as elegant, sophisticated, and sporty. The brand also makes special accessories in fluo yellow to reflect Boll & Rava’s identity and capture the spirit of the modern age.

“The challenge is to give customers comfort and self-confidence. We want our clients to feel confident when they wear our suit and give them power to do whatever they want in life. In the past, knights wore armour. The armour gave the wearers power and confidence. The same concept applies to clothes. For us, well-designed clothes are the modern armour. In our collaboration for Leicester City, we started by underlining our shared values.

We created a special design for them using our fluo yellow, the blue of the club and the camouflage army pattern. The players will feel confident when they are up against Manchester United or Liverpool,” says Rava.

“For Monaco, we proposed a very chic look like shorts and double-breasted jacket with gold buttons. But the guys said they were sportsmen and never wore anything like this. However, little by little, they gained media attention when they arrived at the stadium in this total look with the jacket and bag. They became confident and they won the cup, which was great,” adds Boll.

The duo’s second brand, Ace Denim, is equally as chic, neatly combining the casual fabric with such luxury details as metal buttons and embroidery.

The brand Ace Denim uses premium-quality fabrics that are all from the same base, double twined and twisted, made from 98-per-cent cotton and two-per-cent elastin for comfort. The brand’s washes make its products unique. Washing techniques are renewed every season to deliver ever more sophisticated products with a luxurious feel.

The signature of Ace Denim is the use of galvanised copper as the colour of all the metal elements including buttons, rivets and zips as well as packaging and the lettering on the label. The choice of colour reflects an alliance between industrial roots and sophisticated modernity. And every year, Ace Denim chooses an artist like Paul Sibuet or Alec Monopoly to collaborate on a limited-edition collection.

The two happily admit that their favourite destination is in Asia. “I’d say Hong Kong is really inspiring as well as Bangkok because as we’ve learnt more about the country, and its culture, we have found inspiration for our designs. In Europe it’s Milan. There we can really feel the sense of pret-a-porter,” Rava notes.

“The French Rivera lacks the contrast – it is only beautiful. Here you have beautiful contrasts, you have tradition, you have culture, and you have modernity. Bangkok has the same synergy like in Tokyo, Hong Kong, Singapore. And we don’t have this in France. So, it is very nice and inspiring to travel in Asia. To observe and get inspiration,” says Boll.

New shades for a new year

Published January 5, 2019 by SoClaimon

ศาสตร์เกษตรดินปุ๋ย : ขอบคุณแหล่งข้อมูล : หนังสือพิมพ์ The Nation

http://www.nationmultimedia.com/detail/fashion/30361464

  • Pleates Please by Issey Miyake
  • Balenciaga

New shades for a new year

fashion January 02, 2019 10:00

By THE NATION

3,039 Viewed

Pantone name ‘Living Coral’as its colour of the year

IT’S OUT and it’s official – Living Coral is the 2019 colour of the year. That’s according to the team at the Pantone Colour Institute responsible for creating the Pantone Fashion Colour Trend Report, an overview that highlights the top colours designers will show during fashion weeks all around the world. And they will probably be right: for 20 years, Pantone’s Colour of the Year has influenced product development and purchasing decisions in multiple industries, including fashion, home furnishings, and industrial design, as well as product, packaging, and graphic design.

Leaving last year’s Ultra Violet behind, Pantone notes “Living Coral” – or Pantone16-1546 to give it its technical name – “reflects the desire to face the future with confidence and optimism”, and describes the colour as “vibrant, yet mellow.

“Living Coral embraces us with warmth and nourishment to provide comfort and buoyancy in our continually shifting environment. In reaction to the onslaught of digital technology and social media increasingly embedding into daily life, we are seeking authentic and immersive experiences that enable connection and intimacy,” the press release continues.

And the fashion industry is taking note, as evidenced by early glimpses of many brand’s collections for spring-summer 2019.

Hermes

The luxury fashion house’s vision for the warmer weather this year combines pure, hot blocks of colour, a coral shade included, with the lightest summer cashmere, the softest, most supple leathers and cotton as glossy as the leather for a new fluidity of style.

Bao Bao by Issey Miyake

A favourite with Thai fashionistas. Bao Bao by Issey Miyake presents its new Glacier bags, which play with colour gradation to reflect how a glacier constantly changes hues according to the weather. Fans will find the coral shade in the Orange mix, which brings to mind a glacier as the sun sets, although the Grey mix and Blue mix will no doubt prove equally as popular.

Balenciaga

The luxury fashion house’s spring ’19 collection sees an integration of the creative direction of Balenciaga Women and Men. The translations of high concept silhouettes –from high-tech 3D moulded tailoring to multi-fused garments – suggest new ways of contrasting formal jackets and coats with open-necked shrunk-cut shirts, bootcut jeans and chiselled black leather shoes for men and tweed checked coats worn with knitted thigh-high boots, like the ones Michelle Obama recently wore. for women. Coral makes is appearance in the all-over print dress that includes the LGBTQ rainbow, and a shopping bag bearing the international sign for gender equality.

Mulberry

The British brand’s creative director Johnny Coca, takes inspiration from not only the aesthetic of the 1960s but also the mood – optimism, positivity and energetic spirit. Colours are joyous, combining vibrant shades of pillar-box red, teal and royal blue with classic navies, camels and greys. There are also sugared-almond pastels – mint julep, lemon and soft pinks, mixed with fresh white. Geometric shapes inspire new clutches aptly titled the Roundabout and the Square – named after British street suffixes, one of which spells out optimism with its attractive coral shade.

Pleats Please by Issey Miyake

“Childhood Feelings”, which launches in Japan on Saturday, is the latest creation in the Pleats Please by Issey Miyake line and is richly overlapped with the origins of the brand. The “Aurora Mist” series comes in gradational colours inspired by the clarity of glass with a cool blue and a summery orange that passes through coral on its way to pink making the strongest impression.

Marni

A rabbit symbol was first introduced more than a decade ago as a detail on the Marni shoes line. For spring and summer 2019, creative director Francesco Risso decided to reinterpret this iconic symbol and present it in a new and playful way. With additional supporting graphics inspired by Japanese streetwear, the style comes with variations of the Dance Bunny as an all-over or placed print, intarsia, or applique patch to embellish strong, image-driven products such as knitwear, shirts, sweatshirts, t-shirts and polos, outerwear, and sport pants, as well as an assortment of streetwear-inspired accessories – and yes, coral is in there too.

Jim Thompson

Nearer to home, the Jim Thompson spring and summer collection, “Wonder Silk – a Mysterious Journey” is captured in three chapters. An “Epic and Mysterious” journey, starts with blue hues and elegant patterns and is inspired by “Carte du Royaume of Siam”, a 16th century itinerary trade map, discovered in the James HW. Thompson Founda- tion’s archive. The second, “Tracing Jim Thompson’s Emblematic Jour- ney” boasts warm hues, coral among them, while the third, “Journey as Traveller”, presents a rich hues and patterns from lavish leaves to tropical flower designs.

Chanel

Chanel, meanwhile, puts attitude into its new Chanel 31 bag, pairing distinctive colours for an eye-catching contrast. The name is not only a nod to Chanel’s famous address on the rue Cambon, but also a play on the equally famous French expression “se mettre sur son 31”, translating in English as “dressed to the nines”. A tote with built-in handles, it can be held in the hand or folded in half to become an oversized clutch. Knotted inside is a double strap in two-tone leather that offers a third way of being carried, over the shoulder. Surprisingly light and supple, it exists as a two-tone lambskin version, beige and black in the purest Chanel tradition, plus an array of dynamic colour combinations: pink/ red, red/orange, royal blue/hot pink, green/pink beige and pink/pink beige. No coral though but the orange comes surprisingly close.

Fashion designer Raf Simons to leave Calvin Klein

Published December 24, 2018 by SoClaimon

ศาสตร์เกษตรดินปุ๋ย : ขอบคุณแหล่งข้อมูล : หนังสือพิมพ์ The Nation

http://www.nationmultimedia.com/detail/fashion/30360953

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Fashion designer Raf Simons to leave Calvin Klein

fashion December 22, 2018 13:23

By Agence France-Presse
New York

2,242 Viewed

Belgian fashion designer Raf Simons, considered one of the most talented of his generation, will leave Calvin Klein less than three years after joining it, parent company PVH said Friday.

“Both parties have amicably decided to part ways after Calvin Klein, Inc. decided on a new brand direction which differs from Simons’ creative vision,” the company said in a statement.

The arrival of Simons in New York in August 2016 after four years at Dior caused a sensation: he had the title of chief creative officer, with vast powers to revitalize the American brand, which relied on him to boost the profits of its high-end collection.

But there has been speculation since November about his potential departure, after an official from PVH apportioned him some of the blame for declining sales.

PVH did not specify when Simons would leave, but according to The New York Times, his departure is immediate even though his contract expires in less than six months.

No details have been given as to who will replace him or what he will do after his departure.

During his short stint at Calvin Klein, Simons garnered praise from the fashion world for his innovative collections, and he has received three awards from the Council of Fashion Designers of America.

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